North Luzon 1300LRM: Brevet of happiness

 Day 1

I was only lightly asleep when my alarm sounded at 2.15am. I’d given myself 45minutes to pack my room and be ready for the 3am start, I was still on Australia time (3hrs in front) so this felt easy.

The first checkpoint lurked a polite 45 kilometers down the road, and a small phalanx of Japanese riders set the pace, once they eased up so did the whole bunch! I had tried to be conscientious with my tapering and was feeling fresh and decided to do a 5km turn, only to then have the peloton easy up again… another 5km turn. As we approached the first checkpoint, which was 100mt off to the left I pulled over to the right (left-hand drive rules) to let oncoming traffic pass. Then from nowhere five Filipino riders launched across the asphalt like swallows, raced to the checkpoint and slammed their brevet cards down the table, apparently there is an underground championship of who can be the first to have their card stamped! 

The road to Bassang Pass

The course returned to the hotel start/finish checkpoint then pushed to Libtong, where it turned off of the busy coastal highway and headed for the hills and Segada the mountain top overnight Check Point.

Bessang Pass rose first, gradually presenting itself as the road wound through the valley and rose through switchback and spur, the primary climb of 1200mt over 18km it easily rivals Falls Creek. Bessang pass is home to a monument of a famous WW2 siege where 20,000 Filipino and Allied forces fought a 6 month battle to recapture the pass. The ride organizer had stationed an informal checkpoint halfway up the climb providing a water stop oasis. Over the entire course the level of support provided at every checkpoint was amazing to experience, with helpful vollies ready to fill bidons and feed hungry riders. Each support team having their own special character this was one of the most enjoyable aspects of the ride. As the elevation rose the temperature dropped to a very pleasant 23ish degrees and stopping at the summit I actually started to feel cold with the wind cutting through my soaked jersey. Team Masaya provided expert support, Masaya I learned means happiness, a term which for me became my motto for the ride - ride happy.

Team Happiness

Descending into a central valley the temp quickly climbed to 35 + and the going became tuff, I saw some road workers sprawled out on a make shift platform in the shade; obviously this is the best way to manage the heat in the middle of the day. At the next opportunity I stopped under some shade, refueled and rehydrated, and watched a few riders go past but felt a lot better for the break. I ended crossing paths with these riders down the road; one rider was Russian whose hometown was currently -25 degrees, (a 60 degree temp differential). 2 more climbs and several short stops later I arrived at Sagada in the Mountain Province and home to the famous hanging coffins. A bag drop here allowed for a kit change and a good rest. 

Day 2.

Early morning, Sagada’s dogs announced my descent, mostly bravado and bark — until a Japanese rider received a bite and earned a rabies vaccination shot as a souvenir.

Climb back up Bessang Pass fatigue arrived like an unwanted bill in the mail; I folded at a roadside stall halfway up, elevated my legs, sipped instant coffee, ate boiled eggs like tiny morning suns and began to feel more awake. I arrived at the Bessang Summit half an hour outside of the checkpoint cutoff. 

The descent back to the coastal road as the sun rose was magic and the highlight of the day. In the valley it started to warm up a lot. turning north onto the coastal highway again I encountered a block headwind which would gradually build all day. 

I made the Vigan around lunchtime, the checkpoint was in an old Spanish style villa and I rested flat on the cool tiled floor before being treated to a local pasty style dish. (Vigan would also be the second last checkpoint and rest location on the return).

Leaving Vigan and now pushing into a fan-forced headwind I focused on hydration and keeping a steady rhythm.

Next was Paoay, where the checkpoint was sheltered under the veranda of a municipal building facing the amazing Saint Agustin's Church with trees growing out of the roof like a scene in a Mobius drawing . Although the vollies offered to shout for a meal at an eatery close by my goal Pagapud was still 120km up the road, so I opted for a quick stop here and planned grab a meal at the next town Laoag. Laoag the provincial capital, pulsed with evening traffic and I found a MacDonald’s for dinner, one of the few places to accept electronic payments.

The last 80 kilometers to Pagudpud unfolded like a Jacobs’s ladder and were some of the tuffest miles I’ve ever ridden. The heat of the day persisted well into the evening, the constant northerly head wind became a belligerent onshore gust, batting me with mountain-spawned tantrums and rolling hills required another 300+meters of climb from tired legs. However the day’s effort was rewarded by the Pannzian resort, literally a tropical paradise retreat and the warm masaya reception; food, shower and bed was an experience to savor.

Day 3. 

I woke at 5.30AM, initial disorientated to my location, I had set my alarm for 4... PM by mistake. The course for the day started with a 400mt climb away from the coast, before a long out-and-back to Santa Ana. Misty fog and a gentle northwesterly turned into a warm, nourishing rain, rice paddies lay flat as a page; traffic was coy and thin. I rode with Oleg the Russian for a bit and later with Neil, a Filipino whose legs knew the road’s dialect.

Sta. Ana is located inside of 'Special economic zone' and 'Free Port' and required a manned border crossing. The ride organiser had stations a vollie here to help translate and explained that I needed to show photo ID. I had been carrying my passport with my brevet card which I showed but this was rejected. After I bit more explaining I understood that they wanted me to handover my driver's license while I went out to the checkpoint and to be collect it on the way back. The border guards however were more bark than bite and on return I disarmed them up with some Aussie charm and we were soon posing for a selfie.

The evening roll back to Pannizan was a haiku: 25 degrees, wind, a kindly accomplice. Day folds into rest.

Day 4. 

After breakfast and a ceremonial packing, I started the journey south, hoarding photos and sunlit country as if they were rare stamps. Despite vigilance with fluids and sunscreen, the heat was beginning to take a toll, I rang my wife for a pep talk, accepted the volunteers’ food offer at Paoay, and took breaks 7/11’s industrial air-conditioning. The Vigan checkpoint came midafternoon; still inside PBP cutoff and with a time cushion I planned a rest and finish on day 5. However not being able to grab more than a wink and planning to avoid riding in sun and traffic again I instead decided to push through that night. 

Tiklop (folding bike) Society vollies 

Day 4.5 (Night shift)

Refreshed enough to be dangerous, I rejoined the road. Filipino traffic pulses and flows; there were virtually no traffic lights, only a continuous, breathing current. Flow never stops, it merely changes its mood. Large transport vehicles grew greedy with miles as Manila’s working day exhaled. My brain slid into autopilot, cadence becoming mantra.

At the stroke of midnight it became my birthday — a temporal milestone that invited both introspection and ridiculousness: here I was, riding down a Philippine highway at the witching hour. I tapped it out, stroke by stroke, and arrived back at Hotel Awesome at 4:10 a.m., having collected stamps, suns, dogs, border guards, and the peculiar conviction that bicycles are the most amazing way to explore the world. 

After handing over my brevet card I tried to check into my hotel but the concierge informed check-in was not until 2pm. (ヽ´ω`)

Post ride dinner.

 

Perth Augusta Perth - Ride Report (10/10/22-13/10/22).

Day 0:

I took off from Tullamarine Airport Saturday morning and when I arrived in Perth it was still Saturday morning due to a 3 hour east – west time difference. After checking into my hotel in South Perth I unpacked my bike and was relieved to find that it had arrived in one piece.

On Sunday I awoke early, the weather was amazing with blue sky, light winds and temperature in the mid 20's. Having come straight out of an extended Melbourne winter it was a novelty to wear shorts and tee-shirt again. I explored the city a little before heading to the BBQ and bag drop off, this was a great opportunity to meet the ride organisers and get to know a few of the other riders. This continued at the evening meal where I was lucky enough to sit next to Scott Lovegreen and Warren Page from Vic and NSW respectively who became solid riding buddies over the next few days.

 

Image 1: The Grand Départ

 

 

Day 1:

We rolled out of Perth at 5am Monday morning and soon settled into a steady tempo despite a steady headwind and patchy showers which hung around for the next 3 days. It was good to be riding after the weeks taper and blow away the pre-ride butterflies. Bunbury was the first major checkpoint at 200km and the ride was mainly flat. A group of us were working hard pushing into the head wind and we arrived in Bunbury in the early afternoon. Despite stopping for lunch, soon after Bunbury due to the morning effort I started to run out of oomph and had to let Scott and Warren go, dropping the pace and take on some extra food and fluid. I often go out too hard on these rides, but then again you only have fresh legs once.

 

At sunset I passed through Balingup, the wind had now dropped and I was beginning to feel a little revived and turning toward Nannup I started to get a second wind. Although now dark the final 40km's into Nannup offered some of the nicest riding of the day. The road wound its way through rolling hills with dense bush on one side and farm land on the other as it gradually descended into Nannup, our Check Point and overnight accommodation for the next 2 days.

 

Day 2:

I slept ok on the first night but woke with stiff legs and low energy from the effort of the day before and was feel sorry for myself. This must have showed as Wayne Hickman who was close by and gave me some encouragement saying 'with 350km down, you’re more than 25% complete and where else would I rather be? I recalled a Jack Kerouac quote: 'in the end, you won't remember the time you spent working in the office or mowing the lawn. Climb that ‘expletive’ mountain' and took a few moments to meditated on Rule #5 before breakfast.

 

After breakfast, Scott, Warren and I rolled out a little after 05am, we were making ok progress but appreciated an early stop for coffee at Manjimup. Graphite Rd into Manjimup and the South Western Hwy out were quite busy and where we were near passed by a 4x4, so we were very happy to turn onto the quite Channybearup Rd a few km's out of town. This linked up with the scenic Stirling Rd where Scott discovered a puncture, we all pulled over for a breather and provide helpful advice on the repair. With tube replaced we got moving again and soon arrived at Pemberton the next Check Point.

 

A SpotWalla dot watcher page had been set up to display linked GPS tracker locations across the entire course. I had shared the link with my family who found it reassuring to see my progress, except for one occasion when my tracker didn't refresh and I appeared to get stuck in a toilet block for several hours. Although I thought was discovering South Western WA for the first time, later this day my parents having seen me pass through Pemberton sent me a photo from a trip Pemberton we had taken when I was a toddler. Cycling is a unique way to experience the country side and now as I ‘rediscovered’ the roads around Pemberton perhaps some experience from my childhood had the chance to speak to my adult self.

 

Image 2: Forest around Pemberton circa 1971

 

 

Due to having recently stopped for the tyre repair and a misjudgement/group-think regarding the distance to the next 'secrete' control we passed through Pemberton. This was a mistake as the distance from Pemberton to Augusta is 120km's with no resupply point in between, and we just made it 150km, Manjimup to Augusta. With water bottles emptying and legs getting very tired our oasis 'on a dark desert highway' came in the form of a strategically located secret control at a road side rest area 50km's out of Augusta. Offering a warm reception and equipped with comfy chairs, hot food, water and snacks this was the best Check Point of the entire ride. Refuelled, we continued on the Brockman Highway. The road was wide, traffic was quiet and although exposed and a moderate side/headwind we made good time into town.

 

Augusta was somewhat of an anticlimax, especially as a titular destination of the P.A.P. Here we only had a quick break as there was a planned dinner at the Margaret River Control. Turning north the wind got behind us for the first time and the ride into Margaret River was reasonably quick. We arrived just on sun set and initially missed the Check Point riding straight through town. Doubling back we found the Kebab shop and another rider who was just finishing their meal. The kebabs were great rivalling the best of Sydney Rd Coburg. As the temperature was starting to drop I ate mine with my gloves on which were then soaked in garlic sauce which I could smell for the next 2 days! We were soon joined by other riders but I was starting to cool down and having another 70's km's yet to ride I quickly finished and jumped back on the bike. Mowen Rd between Margaret River and Nannup was a newly surfaced mining road, smooth and wide with long straight ramps and flowing descents. Over this section I passed one rider and we exchanged a few words of encouragement, it’s amazing how a small interaction and a kind word can stay with you.

 

Day 3:

Day 3 and another early start with Scott, Warren and myself rolling out around 5 after another substantial breakfast provided by the amazing WA support crew. There was a morning mist lingering as we climbed out of the Nannup river valley, this soon cleared to reveal rolling countryside heading into Bridgetown. Bridgetown is located in a river valley and would have been a fun descent, except for the fresh road works requiring the use of breaks all the way down.  Although not a Check Point we stopped here at an amazing little café/general store for breakfast.

 

Back on the bike and climbing again up to Boyup Brook which is situated on a catchment plateau for Blackwood and Collie rivers. The countryside was beginning to changed, with more farmland and less wooded forests. From Boyup Brook we had a 95+ km jump to Kojonup, again this was broken up by a strategically placed secret control with warm toasties, coffee and water refill.

 

Image 3: Brockman Hwy b/w Nannup and Bridgetown

 

After a quick stop in Kojonup we were rolling well and looked like making Collie by early evening. However in the middle afternoon on approach to Darkan my rear derailleur cable broke restricting me to my 11 sprocket. I have had this happen before and was carrying a spare and optimistically told Warren to keep on going as I pulled out my tools to replace the cable. On closer inspection, the cable had frayed and snapped at the attachment to the cable-head which had moved around to the top position and I was unable to access or release the cable head. Sitting on the side of the road was not getting me anywhere so I pushed on, emphasising PUSH as I now had a limited choice of 36 by 11 or 52 by 11 gearing. The majority of the days climbing had been completed and there was an overall downhill grade to Collie, but not before a decent rise just out of Darkan. As the sun set my average speed seemed to be dropping like the evening temperature, I was slow and it was cold. Struggling with motivation was thinking of contingency plans to repair the cable in order to complete Day 4 or at worst a mechanical DNF.

 

30 or so km's out of Collie I noticed what appeared to be the lights of a town in the distance, I thought had miscalculated the distance to Collie and was checking my Garmin when I noticed a fine dust settling on the screen and filling the air, I was passing a coal mine operating 24/7. The mine was a massive open cut and you could see deep into the excavation where a dump truck was receiving a house sized load of dirt. Further up the road, I noticed the lights of a transport approaching from behind and moved well off the road (one positive for mining areas is that they build really wide roads). I have been passed by B-double’s before but I was not expecting a triple, although he was across in the middle of the road I was buffeted by the draft. I was very happy to reach Collie soon afterwards.

 

The Collie Control was in the club rooms of the Collie Eagles football team and was warm and bright. Peter Heal was manning the Control and while signing my brevet card I explained by broken cable issue. Peter was happy to have a look at my gear cable and shooed me off to eat. With camping head light attached and multi tool in hand Peter partially disassembled my lever, extracted the lodged cable head, re-lubed the mechanism, threaded the new cable and re-tuned the gears all before I had finished my lentil casserole. I was sincerely thankful for this and Peter needs to add bike-whisperer to his long list of accolades.

     

Day 4:

Whilst I had been planning a later start for the last day, I had not slept very well, so got up early and set off before 6, it was slow going due to the build-up of fatigue over the last 3 days. I soon warmed up on the moderate climb out of the Collie to the edge of the Yilgarn Craton where it descends to the Perth costal basin. Here I was hoping for an epic long descent, however this looked bigger on RWGPS than it was in real life. It turned out to be a pleasant roll with nice views over the valley plane nonetheless.

 

Around Harvey I was caught by Andrew Johnson, we rolled together for a short while and got chatting about Audax jersey designs. Andrew had the traditional woollen style with Audax written across the chest, while I had the newer jersey with multi coloured accents. I had to admit the original is still classic and I would definitely be down for one.

 

Riding around the beautiful Dawesville estuary I was picked up by Jake Harper and Dale Rogers just before stopping in Mandurah for lunch. (Pop trivia: Perth band The Triffids’ seminal album ‘Born Sandy Devotional’, has an early photo of the Mandurah estuary as its album cover.) It was now essentially flat for the rest of the day. The sun was coming out and there was a moderate tail breeze, yet nothing like the head winds we encountered on day 1 and 2. I think it was Dale who mentioned 'a tail wind never makes up for what a head wind takes away'! We team TT’ed the final 80kms into Perth picking up a few Strava segments on the commuter route.

 

Image 4: Borne Sand Devotional album cover.

 

Returning to Perth we road over the Mount Henry Bridge and stopped to take a photo; the sun was still high, the city looked stunning and the end was in sight. Next was the newly developed Elizabeth Quay area and soon afterward we reached our finish point at Bell Tower, where Wayne Hickman and a few of the WA crew came out to meet us. After congratulations and taking more photos we retired to ‘The Lucky Shag’ for a celebratory beer. With the brevet card complete, Wayne presented us with the awesome PAP medal which is a solid piece which features an almost 1:1 scale map of the southern western WA coast line. 

 

Overall I found the Perth-Augusta-Perth LRM to be an amazing ride, the roads and countryside are unique and the organisation and support were excellent. Many thanks to Wayne and all of the WA members and volunteers who made it so easy for the riders to focus on riding and look forward each control point. See you in another 4 years.

 

Image 5: Dale Rogers, Chris Taylor and Jake Harper at Bell Tower	Image 6: Sacha Dowell and Wayne Hickman
	Image 7:

 

 

 

 

 

Victorian High Plains Super Randonnee

I arrived at Myrtleford Wednesday afternoon and rode the first 7km’s of the course as advised, as I was planning on starting in the dark and the start of the 9 Mile Track is obscured by a farm house. Setting off early the next morning, I found the start of the track again without any problems. However a few km’s up the road, I encountered a closed gate with a notice warning of aerial deer hunting. Hoping that someone looking down would notice that I had a head-light, as opposed to a ‘deer in the headlights’ I pushed on. The track follows a ridge line for around 13 km’s, then turns right onto Mt Buffalo Rd for another 10km’s up to the summit. 

With the sun now fully up, I descended to Porepunkah then onto Bright for some breakfast followed by Tawonga Gap next. The temperature  was a pleasant 22 degrees as I began the climb to Mt Hotham where it gradually dropped to 10 degrees. Sound advice I received was to always carry a water proof jacket when riding in the mountains: this is where I put on my Gore-tex jacket, not taking it off for the next 2 days.

Heading back down to St Bernard Hospice then left on to the Dargo High Plains road, the bitumen gave way to gravel within the first 1 km but the surface was generally hard packed and fast. This continued for the next 50km’s until the sealed road starts up again just before the drop down to Dargo. I made it to the Dargo Pub before the kitchen closed at 8pm, the locals were interested in where I had come from and the publican was friendly and welcoming. With the recent 2017 increase in the time limit from 50 to 60 hours I opted to get a room and rest up.

I stared again the next morning before dawn in a light rain which got heavier for the next 2 hours, but eased as I turned off onto Freestone Creek Road entering heavy bush. Although the track was a little slippery due to the rain, the gradient follows the course of the river gradually descending for 30km’s to Briagolong. This was one of the most enjoyable sections of the ride! Coming out of the bush and turning west toward Valencia Creek, I encountered a solid head wind which persisted for the next 2 hours until Glenmaggie. Now in the shelter of the mountains the weather improved, with the wind easing and the sun coming out for the climb through the valley to Licola. This was incredibly picturesque and the Licola camp site had an open general store where I was able to properly refuel my energy stores and refill my drink bottles.

The road from Licola to the 'first' summit of Mt Skene is sealed and provides amazing views over the Macalister river valley and has minimal traffic. At one point I disturbed 3 large wedge tail eagles only a few meters away in long grass enjoying a dead calf, launching together to circle off to my right and wait for me to move on. 

As I approached the first summit the gravel started. Licola is located in the shire of Wellington and Jamieson is in the shire of Mansfield and their boarder dissects the Jamieson-Licola Road. On the east side it’s a road, on the west it’s a rutted, corrugated and hacked up 4 wheel drive only track which requires all your bike handling skills to climb and to descend.

I made it to the Mt Skene lookout check point just on dusk and knew that I was not going to make it the accommodation I had booked in Mansfield by the check-in close time. As I took a photo at the lookout for the control point, I noticed that I had one bar of reception and tried calling the hotel. The bike gods must have been in a favourable mood because it rang and the receptionist picked up. I explained that I would not be in until late and would it be possible to have my room unlocked, ‘not a problem, I can turn the heater on for you too, if you would like’, Yes! positive review on its way!

It was now 4 degrees and fully dark, moon rise was at 5am so that was no help but the clouds had cleared and the milky way was bright. Descending was slow and arduous, twice a passing 4 wheel driver stopped to check if I needed a hand. By that stage I was tempted to take up their offer, throwing by bike in the back and drive down. Instead I thanked them for stopping and pushed on, laser focused on the track while constantly vigilant for a spooked Black Angus running out of the bush (t-boned by a T-bone would be bad!). It’s dirt practically all the way to ‘Jamo’ with no easy sections. I stopped as soon as the sealed road restarted to replenish me glycogen stores and rehydrate. The ride through the valley around Lake Eldon was cold but I was motivated by the thought of a toasty warm hotel room which did not disappoint. 

Day three: rested and doing O.K. for time, I enjoyed a cooked breakfast before rolling out of Mansfield in daylight hours. The Climb to Tolmie or the ‘Col du Tolmielet’ adds a little more elevation before the decent into Whitfield which was very enjoyable. A quick bite and on to the final stretch of gravel, Lake-Buffalo Whitfield Road, this has some pinchy bits but the road is in good condition and the down hill sections flow. Finally around Lake Buffalo itself and on to the home straight to Myrlteford.

Thanks to Audax Australia for hosting this amazing ride and many thanks to Thomas Price for his advice with preparing and planning for this ride.

Sun rise from Mt Bulla

High Plains Road

More High Plains scenery

Mt Skene look out

Climb to Tolmie

Lake Buffalo - home run.

Victorian High Plain S.R. course.

https://ridewithgps.com/routes/19966617